Krazy for Kinsale

Lying snugly between the hills and valleys of West Cork, and safely sheltered by the rounded contours of a harbor that’s protected by two 17th Century forts, Kinsale has been shaped by Norman, Spanish, and English influences. In 1601, it became the “Cockpit of Europe,” with armies of England, Spain and the Northern Irish chieftains in contention. The Irish army was defeated, and after the 100-day occupation of the town by the Spanish forces, they were eventually granted safe passage back to La Coruna. The result of the battle was the end of the Gaelic way of life in Ireland, and the breakdown of the power of the Chieftains and Clans.
In the 16th Century, Kinsale was an important port with trading links to Britain and France. Wine, salt, metals and luxury goods were some of the main imports, while ships leaving the harbor carried hides, cloth, wood, and fish. In 1569, Kinsale was one of 16 designated “wine ports” in Ireland, and its busy harbor meant customs revenue was considerable. For many years, Kinsale enjoyed a reputation as a port of consequence.
At the beginning of the 20th Century, however, the town’s economy declined and many of its fine houses and historic properties became derelict. When tourism to Ireland in general began to take hold in the 1960s, the townspeople of Kinsale sprung into action to return the port to its former glory. Their success story –from winning Entente Florale, the European prize for tourism and the environment to being named National Tidy Town winner and the “Gourmet Capital of Ireland” — has turned Kinsale into one of my favorite Irish destinations as well as one of the country’s most popular resorts.

Go for the food
Enterprising and enthusiastic townspeople, restaurant owners in particular, created the idea of a “Good Food Circle” to promote the town through a common bond of haute cuisine. Famous for its variety of restaurants and eateries — at one point, the claim was made that there were more restaurants per capita in Kinsale than in Paris (24 restaurants for a population of 2,000) — Kinsale came to be known as Ireland’s “Gourmet Capital.” As a vehicle to extend the tourist season into October, the group launched a Gourmet Festival in 1977, a fall weekend devoted to all manner of gourmet dining. Today, the group calls itself Kinsale New Good Food Circle, which includes pubs like Jim Edwards (Market Quay), wine bars like Max’s (Main Street), and hotel dining rooms like Savannah at the Trident (World’s End). They changed the name of the original festival to Kinsale Autumn Flavors Festival, but the emphasis remains on making food fun. So if you like to eat, go for the food.

Go for the history
You can’t ignore Kinsale’s marvelous history, and the best way to capture it is on a walking tour. Some of the highlights include a visit to the Bowling Green, originally built in 1736 as the Kinsale Officers Club, and the 12th century St. Multose Church, one of two important medieval buildings. Desmond Castle, built about 1500, was first used as a Customs House, and later used as a prison for French sailors captured at sea. Today it houses the International Museum of Wine, with exhibitions that trace the history of the “Wild Geese,” families who migrated from Ireland from the 17th to 19th Centuries, and the “Irish Winegeese,” those who later entered the wine trade in other countries. Another interesting stop is the the Courthouse and Regional Museum, built around 1600, which was used for ceremonial occasions in the 18th Century, and in May 1915, the inquest into the loss of the liner Lusitania was held here.
A short distance outside of Kinsale is Charles Fort, one of the area’s best-known attractions and finest surviving examples of a 17th century star-shaped fort. It’s a great destination for a hearty walk through Scilly and the village Summercove as well. Directly opposite is James Fort, named for James II, who landed here in his efforts to regain the throne of England. If you’re interested in how Kinsale’s past has shaped its present, then go for the history.

Go for the shopping
Following the success of the restaurant revolution came the rivival of Kinsale’s history in the arts and crafts guilds. Pottery, silver, candles, and glassware are all manufactured in town, with countless artists, sculptors, potters, and photographers with studios here, including Giles Norman, a renown photographer who specializes in black and white photos of Ireland. Shopping for these locally made and regionally inspired pieces of art is another great way to see the town, and shops along Main, Guardwell, Market, and Pearse Streets are brimming with interesting items. Handmade crafts from other parts of Ireland — wools, linens, metal, and stoneworks-are also widely available at shops throughout the town. If you appreciate Irish arts and crafts, go for the shopping.

Go for the sport
Biking and hiking on the country roads surrounding Kinsale are always high on the agenda of visitors to this part of West Cork, as is golf, of course, at the spectacular Old Head Golf Links, now rated as one of the best in the world. Another less famous course, Kinsale Golf Club, has a 9-hole parkland and an 18-hole meadowland course, both of which welcome visitors. Maritime activities are an essential element of any harbor town like this, so if deep sea angling, yacht charter, river trips, scuba diving, snorkeling, or windsurfing are of interest, go for the sport.
For a small town, Kinsale has an amazing choice of attractions, not the least of which is its proximity to other delightful places in this area of Cork like Blarney, Bantry, Cobh, Clonakilty, Midleton, and Timoleague, to name just a few.
Tourism officials offer this recipe for Kinsale’s success: “Take one spectacular location, season liberally with Norman, Spanish, and English influence, add one major battle and let simmer for 400 years. The result: Kinsale, a medieval town filled with fine food, traditional bars, beautiful buildings, narrow streets, shops and galleries, and plenty of activities on land and sea.”
They like to say that “Kinsale is not just a place, but a state of mind.” Once you visit, I think you’ll agree, and like me, keep going back for more.
For complete details on Kinsale, call the tourist office at 011-353-477-2234, visit www.kinsale.ie, or email info@kinsale-tourism.ie.